Posted 20 hours ago

Diplomat Chimney Fireplace Flue Heat Exchanger/Hot Air Exchanger, Exhaust Gas Cooler Black, XL Diameter 130 mm, 5 Pipes with Damper

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Hilcoil sells stainless steel coils, not cheap however they might be a good idea if one was going to do a watertube heat exchanger that would last.

There's no free lunch here -- if you take more heat out of your exhaust, you're gonna have creosote build up much faster -- even if you burn only good, dry hardwood, and even if you're careful to always keep a hot fire going. The fire-tube HX in the flue gases seem like the most user-friendly for the reason of cleaning and for durability. Purely incidentally, but somewhat along the same lines, the various devices used by some on wood stoves have somewhat similar problems, with the added problem of allowing the creosote from relatively incomplete combustion of wood (particularly in airtight stoves) to condense in the chimney. I don't have specific advice with regard to woodburner flues, but I know we install whole house heat recovery ventilation systems that can recover some of the heat from woodburning stoves.Normal gas path straight up, but when the draw fan kicks in sucking the waste gases past the section with the coil on it. A stand alone stove and flue pipe set up is very expensive, for as much as that would be the best solution. Chimney stack will be huge and exits at the height of the highest barn we have, the draw on it will be monsterous. It seems there is one commercial design and one DIY design which has a condensing wood burner, but neither is really open to you, however the big problem with wood and coal is particular emissions, there are different ways around the problem, but the main way is a set burn rate, and an after burner, so no alternative fire must have doors, open fires are out. I have had little luck finding old gas water heaters that don't leak, but this might still be a simple option.

I then drilled an tapped a hole in perpendicular to the slots to accept a screw that clamps the block to the thin metal housing of the heat exchanger. I had an old water tank and some schedule 40 steel tubing, but the water tank wasn't much thicker than sheet metal.In principal (I have done it before) a single skin flue pipe running through a bedroom boxed in brickwork, with vents at floor and ceiling level will give convected heat, you would have to insulate the top section of chimney so as not to cool gasses too much. Lastly, if you change the setup much (for example by installing woodstove or whatever), be sure to have some professional (possibly including your insurance carrier) sign off on it, in case you ever have to file an insurance claim. I checked it when it was installed by the contractors the landlord brought in and it gives a whole heap of stats like uptime, battery life left and if there were any alerts and if so the CO amount in ppm. The trade-off is that your stack temperatures with a woodstove will be lower than with a fireplace when you do this, causing more/faster condensation of creosote in the flue.

The only experience I have with a heat exchanger was one in a local church that was in the top of a very old oil furnace. It seemed ideal, that is until I saw the installation cost, it would take around 25 years to pay for its self.

I've used it for heating truck parts (not the cutting torch assembly though) with a rose bud and welding tips. Once the bucket was cleaned up, I used an Angle grinder with a fiber cut-off wheel installed to cut the bottom of the bucket off. degree bend straight out of the wall behind it 8inches hole through the wall with Midtherm followed with a y piece incorporating a sootbox and then up onto the roof all in 8inch outer 6 inch i/d stainless pipe 1inch rockwool insulation works a treat! This product can be used in the instance of a power outage by removing the back panel that covers the wiring so the wires do not get damaged with the enclosed heat. We've never had an issue with it, but its better to do the work and make it good than to keep running on the "well its never been an issue.

Tapering down the exhaust ports through the heat exchanger to a single port that meshes with the flue would be a ton easier. The burner kicks out lots of heat into the room and some heat to adjoining rooms, through air convection, but the rest of the house does not receive much benefit. I plan on insulating the firebox with high temperature insulation (another thread) and then adding a heat exchanger, also homemade, to the top of the whole caboodle.Ten heat exchanger tubes, within the unit, literally reclaim heat that otherwise would be lost out the chimney.

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